Sometimes, it is better to imagine a magical place than to actually see it - better to envision a glorious past than to permit current-day scars and blemishes to create a sorrowful first and lasting impression.
Florida’s Hialeah Park is such a place. For many years it was considered to be one of the most beautiful racetracks in the world. Today, however, it is a shell of its former self.
Nearly eight months after the conclusion of World War II, Sir Winston Churchill and his wife Clementine visited Hialeah Park during a well-deserved vacation. The British Prime Minister described the track in one word: “Extraordinary!”
And it certainly was.
Located 12 miles north of downtown Miami in Hialeah, Florida, Hialeah opened as a Greyhound track in 1921. Thoroughbred racing came along four years later, but took a hit the following year when the track suffered serious damage due to a hurricane. In 1930, the legendary horseman Joseph E. Widener acquired Hialeah Park and implemented a new aesthetic design. This included a new grandstand and clubhouse, as well as beautifully landscaped gardens. Most noteworthy, however, was placement of a lake in the infield that was fully-stocked with flamingos.
Twenty of the birds were imported from Cuba in the early 1930s and 12 years later Widener brought in another 100. Along the way, Hialeah received official designation as a sanctuary for the American Flamingo by the Audubon Society. Mention Churchill Downs and many envision the Twin Spires—invoke the name Hialeah Park, and most will talk about these incredible birds that still congregate near the pond at the south end of the infield.
The redesign of Hialeah was influenced by the look and feel of many of the world’s great racetracks, including Epsom Downs, Longchamp, Ascot and Deauville. Widener and his architect, Lester Geisler, modeled the majestic staircases, terraces, walking ring and the tunnel leading to the track after ideas gleaned from these iconic venues. It became home to the first turf course in the United States. And in the late 1940s, the property was home to more than 10,000 palm trees and over 100,000 small shrubs and plants. The tree-lined paths became nearly as symbolic of the racecourse as the flamingos were. Nearly 90 years after its redesign, visitors to Hialeah can still see many of these details today.
Often been called “The Grande Dame of Racing”, during its glory years, Hialeah became a destination for the rich and famous. This included visits from U.S. Presidents, celebrities and dignitaries such as Princess Grace of Monaco, Amelia Earhart, Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor, Aristotle Onassis, Will Rogers and Joe DiMaggio.
But the biggest celebrities here walked and ran on four legs.
As the years rolled by, Hialeah was graced by the presence of Seabiscuit, War Admiral, Forego, John Henry, Spectacular Bid, Seattle Slew, Secretariat and Northern Dancer. While countless horses have walked through the track’s paddock and loaded in its starting gates, one hero has never been forgotten and that is the great Citation. He ran here four times in February of 1948 during his Triple Crown-winning season, winning all four races, including Hialeah’s signature Flamingo Stakes. Citation was immortalized in 1965 with a statue created in Florence, Italy, that stands today on a 5,955 pound marble base in the center of a lily pond in the Hialeah Park paddock.
The track continued to grow and prosper during the 50s and 60s and saw the addition of the famous Flamingo Fountain, as well as the Flamingo Pavilion and Flamingo Terrace. Ownership of the track changed hands a few times until 1977 when it was acquired by breeder and developer John J. Brunetti Sr. Brunetti dedicated himself to the preservation and restoration of the legendary racetrack, which on March 2, 1979 was listed in the National Register of Historic Places.
In 2001, Brunetti closed the track to the public and halted racing after a new state law prevented Hialeah from securing exclusive racing dates separate from competitor Miami tracks Gulfstream Park and Calder Race Course. Eight years went by before Hialeah opened its gates again on November 28, 2009.
Revitalization of the 200-acre property kicked into high gear in August of 2013 with the opening of a new casino. The facility delivered over 800 Las Vegas-style slot machines, electronic roulette and blackjack. In order to keep the slot machines running, a live horse racing meet was necessary. Long gone were the days of Thoroughbred racing at the track, so Hialeah provided traditional Quarter Horse racing from 2009-2016.
While John Brunetti spent millions on the restoration of the track’s historic buildings, in June of 2017 he sought to cut costs, which resulted in a different and far less desirable type of horse racing - Quarter Horse match races. Very little is required in Florida to license a business as a racetrack. As long as two or more horses begin a “performance” by lining up in a box or a gate, and jockeys are given a verbal “go” command to run approximately 100 yards, it is subsequently classified as racing. There is a requirement of 40 races during a meet, so that can be accomplished through 20 days of racing with two performances a day. The change drew wide spread criticism from the racing industry with criticism pointed not only at Hialeah management, but also at the state government in Tallahassee.
Hialeah Park Racing & Casino still sits today on 40 square blocks of central-east side Hialeah and continues to be a stop along the Miami Metrorail line. John Brunetti Sr. died in March of 2018 at age 87 and the operation is run today by his sons, John Jr. and Stephen. The racetrack facility is open year-round, however, that is more about the casino and less about what passes for racing during the months of December and January.
When walking the grounds today, it is sad to see peeling paint, rust, and a mostly empty grandstand and clubhouse. But people still do come here for its celebrated food at restaurants in both the casino and racing pavilion, as well as Latin American music and dance on weekends.
Every now and then, there is fleeting talk of hope for restoration and a comeback.
The wrecking ball has stayed away thus far. And the flamingos have not left. If you are lucky, you might see them soar across the skies above the race course as they did during the track’s golden age. And you can turn around, view the remainder of this legendary venue, close your eyes and — imagine.